June 2014-
Q: Hi Steve,
I fly my Piper Cherokee 235 a lot. I like to fly to remote strips to hike and fish. Sometimes I’m gone for up to a week.
It doesn’t happen often, but there have been a couple of times when my airplane battery hasn’t been able to crank the engine. I know how to prop my Cherokee, but I consider this a dangerous option and will only do it as a last resort.
There is a ground power plug on my Cherokee but I’m reluctant to spend $200 for a set of Piper-specific jumper cables. There’s usually a jeep or pickup truck around at these remote strips—and being out in the country, automotive jumper cables are always nearby—so really, all I need is a way to get power from the jumper cable clamps into the Piper ground power plug.
I suppose I could mess around long enough to figure out how to connect the jumper cable clamps to my Cherokee’s battery terminals, but that seems like a real hassle. Is there a better way to get power into my airplane ground power plug?
—Hiker Hank
A: Dear Hank,
I’m glad you’re using your Cherokee for something more than weekly $100 hamburger flights! Flying into remote locales is an ideal use for your powerful Cherokee, and I’d urge more people to explore this flying option. There’s a remote airstrip or airport within a few hours of almost every major city.
First off, an airplane battery that’s healthy should not be depleted after a week. If you’ve done a capacity check on the battery and it’s good, I’d recommend doing a parasitic load test to determine if there’s a continual load on your battery when the master switch is off.
It’s common these days for airplanes to have what’s called a “keep alive” circuit that is not controlled by the aircraft master electrical switch and contactor. Keep alive circuits are always connected to the battery. One example of a keep alive circuit is the one for the electric clock.
A parasitic load test consists of nothing more than removing one of the battery cables and measuring the current flow from the battery to the airplane by inserting a digital multimeter between the cable and the battery.
A typical parasitic load these days is 50 milliamps. If you find you have a large parasitic load, then you should determine the nature of the load.
The one sure-fire method of preventing battery drain while you’re out on your latest adventure is disconnecting the negative (ground) cable at the battery. You could remove the positive (power) cable—either one will stop parasitic discharging—but removing the ground cable prevents arcing. The positive cable is the one connected to the battery contactor.
The solution to your connection woes is a handy product called Plug & Jump. This easy-to-carry device is a conduit between a set of automotive-style jumper cables and your Piper ground power plug.
The next time you find your battery won’t crank in the bush, all you have to do is get your Plug & Jump out of your baggage compartment, insert it in your airplane ground power receptacle and connect a set of jumper cables to the lugs on the device. The positive and negative lugs are well marked.
A Piper Plug & Jump will work for both 12 and 24 volt aircraft electrical systems. All well-known General Aviation parts houses stock these devices for around $75.
Happy flying.
Q: Hi Steve,
I’m hoping to refurbish my Piper PA-28-150. This is my first airplane and it’s been dependable, hasn’t been very expensive to maintain, and is easy to fly.
I’m still working my way up the business ladder and don’t really have a lot of money right now, but I’d like to start spiffing her up a little. Is there a simple and not-too-expensive appearance upgrade you would recommend I start with?
—Starting Sue
A: Dear Sue,
Excellent question. I’d recommend a new glareshield. In my experience the glareshield in older airplanes (your PA-28-150 is now over 50 years old) is one of most glaring reminders of the age of the airplane.
Even if the rest of the airplane is airworthy, a tacky-looking glareshield doesn’t support that notion—and the glareshield is the one part of the airplane that you and your passengers see during every flight.
The best FAA approved glareshields I’ve seen are made by Ashby Aircraft Glareshields. These easy-to-install fiberglass glareshields fit up against the inside of the installed windshield and have a textured leather look with a semi-gloss black finish.
Each Ashby glareshield will have to be trimmed slightly for a perfect fit, but when the installation is complete, you’ll be very happy with the result. I installed one in my airplane about eight years ago and it still looks great. (Installation remarks for your airplane are on the Ashby website which is listed below in Resources; look under the “Glareshields” button on the site and follow the links. —Ed.)
Ashby glareshields can be ordered either without lights or with instrument lights, and are distributed by Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. The cost for the unlighted model is $325, while one with lights will cost $423 (12 volts) or $438 (24 volts).
Q: Hi Steve,
I own a Piper Tri-Pacer with a 160 hp O-320-B2B engine. The other day I saw the data plate on the engine that says it can burn 91-96 octane fuel. In order to get Avgas I have to fly 15 miles to the next airport and pay $5.39 a gallon.
Some of the other guys on my airport are using 89 octane auto fuel from the Chevron station in Lillian, Ala., right across the street from the private strip where I park my airplane.
It would a lot easier for me to get that Chevron fuel than the Avgas—and it’s almost two dollars a gallon cheaper.
They say I should do it. What do you say?
—Alabama Al
A: Dear Al,
You can do it, but not with the fuel from that Chevron station.
First off, it’s illegal for you to put any auto gas in your airplane. In order for you to legally use auto gas, you need to buy an STC for the use of auto gas. Petersen Aviation has developed an STC for your airplane and engine. Cost for this approval is $320. It’s important to note that no auto gas with ethanol should ever be poured in an airplane fuel tank.
Secondly, the Petersen website specifically states that the auto fuel that must be used in your engine is 91 octane, not the 89 octane sold by the Chevron gas station in Lillian, Ala. Even if you purchased the STC to permit the use of auto gas, you’d have to find a supplier of 91 octane auto gas in order to protect your engine.
Thirdly, some sources state that auto gas of the correct octane rating is only a good idea for pilots that fly a lot, since auto fuel is not as time-stable as Avgas. Other auto gas users say they have never had any problems with auto gas; in fact, they say the benefits far outweigh any disadvantages.
If you can find 91 octane auto gas nearby, I’d recommend you go ahead and buy the STC and start using it. You can find a list of gas stations that sell non-ethanol auto gas in Resources at the end of this column.
Happy flying.
Know your FAR/AIM and check with your mechanic before starting any work.
Steve Ells has been an A&P/IA for 39 years and is a commercial pilot with instrument and multi-engine ratings. Ells also loves utility and bush-style airplanes and operations. He’s a former tech rep and editor for Cessna Pilots Association and served as associate editor for AOPA Pilot until 2008. Ells is the owner of Ells Aviation (EllsAviation.com) and the proud owner of a 1960 Piper Comanche. He lives in Paso Robles, Calif. with his wife Audrey. Send questions and comments to editor@www.piperflyer.com.
RESOURCES
Universal Conduit
Plug & Jump
plugandjump.com
PFA Supporters
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
aircraftspruce.com
Chief Aircraft Inc.
chiefaircraft.com
Sporty’s Pilot Shop
sportys.com/pilotshop
Wag-Aero
wagaero.com
Glareshield Replacement
Ashby Aircraft Glareshields
aircraftglareshield.com
AUTO GAS
Petersen Aviation
autofuelstc.com
Ethanol-free gas stations in the United States and Canada
pure-gas.org
