03-13
Nothing improves the looks of a plane more than paint and interior.
Many of us have wanted to change the look of our airplane’s interior plastic by either replacing it or painting it because of cracks and discoloration. As plastic parts age, they become brittle and cracked—and in many cases, just removing them will crack them.
There are certainly ways to repair a crack, such as mixing up small pieces of the PVC with MEK and bonding the pieces together. This unfortunately still leaves evidence of the crack and even after careful filling and painting, the repair in most cases will be evident.
When the project to restore my Piper Lance was just beginning, my plan was to replace just some of the interior plastic. The plane had only 1,700 hours and it had been hangared in high desert country all of its life.
I’d expected the plastic parts to be in pretty good condition, but I got a surprise when it came time to remove them. As nice as the plastic trim looked when installed, as it was being removed, many of the sections literally broke into pieces. It was apparent that the plastic had to be completely replaced.
Choosing Vantage Plane Plastics
There are several companies in our small industry that make FAA-approved replacement interior plastic parts, but none make as many pieces needed for this project as Vantage Plane Plastics in Alva, Okla. I had the opportunity to tour Plane Plastics prior to deciding on a vendor, and getting to know the company and its staff sealed the deal for me.
I was going to have to replace everything but the rear bulkhead. Since Vantage Plane Plastics does not make that part for the PA-32, I was fortunate mine was in good condition.
Changing the window molding
One of the biggest complaints I have with the Lance is with the design of the window and side moldings. I have yet to see any of the PA-32 models prior to 1982 that didn’t have an issue with the side panels that wrap around the center section of each window opening.
As these planes age, the curved portion of the side panels between the windows come loose and are difficult to keep fastened to the small clips provided. When this problem occurs, even the nicest interiors will lose the polish that most owners prefer.
I had hoped to find window trim that was continuous on the bottom portion of the windows—similar to 1983 and later Saratogas. This would enable the side panels to be straight across the top and make the installation not only stand up better over the years, but make for a more modern-looking interior.
I told the folks at Plane Plastics what I really wanted was to fill the open sections of the window trim with a matching section of the molding. I could weld the parts together with the paste they had, making the trim into one piece and allowing me to redesign the door panels.
To my surprise, Vantage Plane Plastics happened to manufacture the inserts I needed. They were not designed for my specific application, but there was no reason they couldn’t work.
Starting the project
When the plastic parts arrived from Vantage Plane Plastics, it was almost overwhelming. You don’t realize how many parts you have until you start taking them out of box and laying them out. At one time I counted 68 items—and I’m almost sure I missed something in that count. I found it extremely helpful to use the old parts to mark the trim lines on the new plastic.
The first task of the redesign of the window trim was to install the new pieces in the respective windows (pg. 44). One of the benefits of using Vantage Plane Plastics’ parts is the quality. The plastic is slightly thicker than the original, which will help retard the aging process.
One thing that surprised me during this project was the fit of the parts. Most of the parts were oversized and required extensive trimming.
Trimming and fitting
Although it was time-consuming, I now see why Plane Plastics doesn’t trim each piece to fit. If they did, they probably wouldn’t fit as well as when you trim the part to fit your installation. I found the plastic—being new—was very easy to trim with tin snips, which made for a better installation (pg. 46). I used a four-inch sander for the final trimming (pg. 45).
With the new window moldings installed like the originals, it was just a matter of fitting the new inserts in the lower portion of the plastic. The new inserts had a lip molded on the window side and I found that by heating this lip until it was soft I could squeeze it down almost flat and it would hook over the new window molding while the bonding process took place.
Vantage Plane Plastics provided a small bag of the plastic pellets that I mixed with a small amount of MEK to make a paste adhesive. I then brushed the paste onto both parts and bonded them together. I found to make the parts fit exactly together it was advantageous to pop rivet (aluminum rivet) the lower portion to the aluminum-attaching strip on the plane.
After the pieces were dry (overnight), I drilled out this pop rivet and remove the entire assembly, which was now one piece. Applying this same procedure to the other windows made the task of creating one continuous part from two a fairly easy job.
The inserts I’d just installed needed to have lip trimmed off to provide for the window trim vinyl edge molding, which would be installed following the painting.
Painting
The painting of the plastic was not a difficult task and with a little practice, I feel that anyone could paint plastic molding if they desire. The nice thing about working with new plastic is the preparation for painting is relatively easy.
I personally like to use Red Scotch-Brite to lightly scuff the surface. This is an important step and is done in order to provide a better surface for the paint to bond (pg. 46, bottom left).
In the past, I have used a paint product made by Sherwin-Williams called Jetflex, and decided to use it again for this project. It’s available from Advanced Aircraft Coatings in Oklahoma City and Dallas, or you may also wish to order it from Vantage Plane Plastics along with your new plastic parts.
Jetflex is offered in both a water base and a solvent base. I feel the solvent base provides a better bonding with the plastic, but the water base is more in tune with the environment. I prefer a semi-gloss finish.
Before you apply any finish, it is important to make sure the parts are free of any oil, wax or silicone; this includes body oil from your hands. I recommend you buy a gallon of DuPont 3812 fast dry enamel reducer and wipe the parts with it prior to painting. This product is available from any automotive paint supply store.
When using the Jetflex product containing polyurethane, it is important to wear a mask that will remove the toxins as you spray. Most any of the canister spray masks will work.
I like to spray with a working pressure of 40 psi. This is more than enough to atomize the liquid without a great deal of over spray.
The first coat should be a wet tack coat followed by two more full coats. Be sure to allow the Jetflex to flash over (that is, to partially dry—to where it is tacky) before applying the next two coats. Normally Jetflex will be dry to touch in 10 minutes and fully cured overnight.
Vinyl edge
Once the panels were totally dry, it was time to install the vinyl window trim. This vinyl material comes in rolls and is available by the foot from Vantage Plane Plastics.
The vinyl has a short edge and a long edge. The long edge should be on the outside of the molding so when installed all you see is the small portion of the edge trim.
After the edge trim is installed on the panels, I recommend you spot glue the edge using trim cement to make sure it doesn’t come loose over the years (pg. 46, bottom right).
Final installation
Once the panels were finished, it was time for the best part: the installation. After positioning the panels over each window, they need to be secured around the lower edge.
Many will use either #4 or # 6 PK screws for this task. I like to secure the lower edge of the plastic to the aluminum trim strip (provided with the plane) using 1/8-inch aluminum pop rivets (pg. 47). They are lightweight, easy to install and just as easy to remove (by drilling the head if needed). Another advantage with the pop rivets is they have a very thin head, which allows the finished lower side panels to fit tighter and closer.
When painted and installed, there is little that can be more rewarding than to look at new plastic interior parts (pg. 49). Except maybe to fly an aircraft with a brand-new interior!
Dick Russ is a multi-thousand-hour commercial, ME and instrument-rated pilot. He’s also a Flight Test Engineer and an A&P/IA who has restored many Pipers. In addition to his career as a freelance writer and aviation business owner, he was Senior Engineer on the Shuttle Enterprise Approach and Landing Test Program at Edwards AFB. Russ holds three patents on aviation components. Send questions or comments to editor@www.piperflyer.com.
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