June 2012
I perked up last October when Audrey said she was headed to Rhinebeck, N.Y. Rhinebeck! That’s the only place I know of where World War I-vintage airplanes as well as airplanes from the Pioneer and the Lindbergh eras are flown during summer weekends. When I learned that the last show of the year at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome (ORA) was taking place on the same weekend that Audrey was going to Rhinebeck, I joined her. It was our first Hudson River Valley adventure.
The historic village of Rhinebeck is located 90 nm north of New York City’s Times Square and is just a mile inland from the eastern shore of the Hudson River. After arriving and settling in on Friday, I called ORA and been told that the air was bad—too many breezes—to fly on Saturday, so I wisely chose to accompany my wife instead. I crossed my fingers for good air on Sunday.
We set out on a brisk and blustery Saturday morning for the five-minute drive to the Dutchess County Fairgrounds. There we joined a well-bundled and orderly line at the gate. We were minutes away from opening day of the 39th Annual Sheep and Wool Festival.
Audrey worked with Shannon Okey of Cooperative Press to shoot photos for her book (titled “Reversible Scarves: Curing the Wrong Side Blues”), while I set out to explore the world of fabric arts. I took the bad air as a sign that this day was expressly for maintaining the family reputation for expertise in pretzel-tasting and kettle corn-eating.
THE SHEEP AND WOOL FESTIVAL
Since this was my first Sheep and Wool Festival, I had a lot to learn. I saw wooly examples of what I came to understand were only a few of the hundreds of sheep breeds. I also saw examples of goats; a demonstration of leaping llamas; alpacas; and I even happened across a momma kangaroo—in Australia, a female is a “flyer”—carrying around a little baby ‘roo—a joey—in her pouch. I learned what makes cashmere goat cashmere.
Festival attendees can participate in an array of workshops including basket weaving, knitting, felting, weaving, spinning, dying, design and crocheting. There seemed to be something interesting and fun in and around every one of the 22 different barns and exhibit halls. Not only was there a lot to see and do (and eat), entrance fees were very reasonable.
It’s a tradition—fabric artists wear their artistry. This conversation was overheard near one of the vendor’s booths: “Your sweater is beautiful! You must be getting a lot of compliments.” “Yes, the sweater is doing very well.”
The patrons, artists and vendors all seemed to be enjoying each other as the brisk winds pushed cotton ball clouds overhead. As the day ended, the winds eased.
I felt like the knitters attending the Sheep and Wool Festival are just as “enthusiastic” (wacko) about knitting as the airplane aficionados at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome are “enthusiastic” (wacko) about airplanes. Brothers and sisters coming together to worship artistry; different types of artistry, but artistry just the same.
THE OLD RHINEBECK AERODROME
In 1951, airplane mechanic Cole Palen submitted a bid for six World War I airplanes that were being displaced from a small museum at Roosevelt Field—Charles Lindbergh had taken off from this airport on his epic flight across the Atlantic on May 20, 1927—when the airfield was purchased for a shopping center development project.
Palen won the bid, and after moving the airplanes he stored them for nearly eight years until he was able to save enough money to purchase land. Then he cleared it and scrapped together an airstrip and hangars like the ones our grandparents laid eyes on when aviation was our nation’s pride.
The first ORA airshow took place in 1960. Soon the world began to take notice. The ORA was featured in National Geographic magazine and other media outlets. People began to travel to Rhinebeck to see flying examples of famous World War I aircraft such as the Red Baron’s Fokker Dr.I triplane, and a Spad VII similar to the one flown by World War I ace Eddie Rickenbacker.
Today the ORA collection of World War I vintage airplanes includes examples of French, German, English and American built aircraft including the Caudron G.III, Albatross D.Va, Avro 504K, Curtiss “Jenny” JN-4H, Deperdussin, Hanriot, Morane Saulnier AI, Royal Aircraft Factory S.E.5a and the Sopwith Camel, as well as others from what ORA refers to as the Pioneer era.
The weekend shows, provided the weather is cooperative, typically feature the Pioneers of Aviation show on Saturday. The Pioneer era airplanes out on display last October included a Curtiss Pusher, an original Bleriot built in 1909, a Hanriot, a Great Lakes and others.
I interviewed Joe O’Conner who pilots the ORA 1911 Hanriot; this elegant little (500 pounds MTOW) airplane is a reproduction built from plans over 40 years ago by Palen and others. This monoplane has two sticks—the left one controls elevator deflection while the right one warps the wings for roll control. The fuselage looks like a long, narrow, strip-planked canoe. O’Connor sits on—rather than in—the wicker seat as he flies around the patch at speeds approaching 50 miles per hour.
The non-flying airplanes in the ORA collection—over 60 more antique aircraft—are housed in four buildings located a short walk uphill from the strip. Each building is packed with original aircraft from the three eras, as well as static displays of engines and ground vehicles from those bygone years. Docents guide visitors along tours in these storage buildings, explaining the engineering and technological advances demonstrated on collection aircraft.
The gate at ORA opens at 10 a.m. and after entering, patrons are free to wander back and forth along the fence line of the airstrip to look closely at and take photos of the airplanes flying in the show. Plank benches provide seating. There’s also a small food booth and a souvenir store on site.
It was all very fun, very low key—and very special. Admission is $20 for adults, with reduced rates for children and youngsters ages five to 17, and scouts and military members in uniform; children under five are free.
The ORA season runs from mid-June through mid-October. Look up the summer schedule on the website; it is packed full of information about the show and the airplanes. Don’t forget to book a flight-seeing hop in ORA’s 1929 New Standard biplane during your visit. (Note: The weekend airshows actually take place at 9 Norton Rd. in Red Hook, if you need an address for GPS navigating.)
I’ve seen and attended airshows for over 40 years and have to say, I enjoyed my day the ORA immensely and left feeling grateful to the staff and volunteers who keep this American aviation treasure thriving.
MANY NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Since we were late to reserve a motel room during the Sheep and Wool weekend, we found that there were no rooms available within a small radius. We got on the ‘net and went to a site for vacation rentals by owner, where we found a small house for the weekend.
Rhinebeck itself was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979 in part because of 437 well preserved buildings that reflect architectural styles over the past 200 years.
The construction of the Beekman Arms—located in the middle of Rhinebeck—was begun in 1766. Today it’s still operating as a country inn and restaurant. It’s the oldest continuously operating inn in America.
Other significant structures near Rhinebeck include the Chancellor Livingston House (built 1783); the Quitman House (built 1798); Wilderstein, a Queen Anne style mansion remodeled and enlarged in 1888, and the Mills Mansion, a Beaux Arts mansion built in 1832.
Dutchess County played a significant role in America’s fight for independence during the Revolutionary War and a number of sites, such as the John Kane House in Pauling, George Washington’s headquarters in 1778; the Clinton House (1765) and Locust Grove, home of Samuel F. B. Morse in nearby Poughkeepsie, are all in the county.
THE REST OF OUR VISIT
During the rest of our time we putzed around Rhinebeck, gloried in the fall leaves, and were happy to find that Rhinebeck restaurants set tables that pleased both the eye and the palate. We suspect that this is partially due to Rhinebeck’s proximity to the world renowned Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park.
One afternoon we turned onto River Road at the north end of Rhinebeck and drove a couple of miles to Ferncliff Forest Game Refuge and Forest Preserve. There we hiked trails through what the forest website says is the second best old growth forest in the Hudson Valley. In addition to trails in the preserve, there are a number of three-sided shelters with firepots, and campers are allowed to stay for up to seven days.
We climbed the tower and gathered in views of the wide expanse of the Hudson River, the distant and storied Catskill Mountains, the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge spanning the Hudson, and the golds, yellows and reds of the fall colors.
We even saw the Hudson River cruise ship Rip Van Winkle plying the river. Interesting fact: Washington Irving, author of “Rip Van Winkle,” penned the story in 1819 having never been closer to the Catskills than Birmingham, England.
We could have spent weeks exploring historical sites, enjoying fine dining and hiking the many trails in this part of New York.
GETTING THERE
Nearby airline landing sites are Stewart International (KSWF)—34 miles south near Newburgh—and the Albany airport (KALB) located 57 miles north. Amtrak trains stop at RhineCliff station (RHI).
The ORA website recommends that private airplane visitors to the Rhinebeck area land at the Kingston-Ulster Airport (20N) and catch a cab across the bridge. Travelers need to mention the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome to get the prearranged reduced-fare deal.
ORA cautions against landing at Sky Park airport (46N) in Red Hook—even though it is closer than the Kingston airport—because it’s unattended (a call must be made prior to arrival to get the road gate unlocked) and due to the runway condition.
Private flyers can obtain permission to land at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome airfield (NY94) on airshow weekends by phoning ahead for prior approval. There are restrictions. Arrivals must land before 12:30 p.m. and departures cannot take off before 4:30 p.m. The runway is turf, measures 2,200 x 75 feet and looked to have a pretty good hump up near the north end.
Consider the following sentence from the ORA website and make sure you and your airplane are ready for a Rhinebeck Aerodrome landing and takeoff. “The runway and environs at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome are typical of those found during the Pioneer Era of aviation.” In other words, it’s not a typical light airplane airport, so be wise and plan accordingly.
There are many aviation events every summer. Big events such as AirVenture in Wisconsin, which is recognized internationally, and smaller regional events scheduled for every weekend throughout the good flying days of summer. But there is nothing in the United States that is anything like the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome’s shows. Plan to attend soon.
Steve Ells has been an A&P/IA for 38 years and is a commercial pilot with Instrument and Multi-Engine ratings. Ells also loves utility and bush-style airplanes and operations. He’s a former tech rep and editor for Cessna Pilots Association and served as Associate Editor for AOPA Pilot until 2008. Ells is the owner of Ells Aviation (www.EllsAviation.com) and the proud owner of a 1960 Piper Comanche. He lives in Paso Robles, Calif. with his wife Audrey. Send questions and comments to editor@www.piperflyer.com.
RESOURCES
AIRSHOW AND VINTAGE AIRCRAFT
Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome
oldrhinebeck.org
AREA ATTRACTIONS
Dutchess County Tourism
dutchesstourism.com
Dutchess County Fairgrounds
dutchessfair.com
Ferncliff Forest Game Refuge
and Nature Preserve
ferncliffforest.org
Historic Hudson Valley
hudsonvalley.org
HISTORIC SITES
dutchesstourism.com/historic-sites.asp
Hudson River Cruises
hudsonrivercruises.com
Hyde Park Chamber of Commerce
hydeparkchamber.org
Rhinebeck Farmers’ Market
rhinebeckfarmersmarket.blogspot.com
Sheep and Wool Festival
sheepandwool.com
ACCOMMODATIONS
Vacation Rentals by Owner
VRBO.com
